As I’ve begun learning more and reflecting on my experiences so far, there is one subject that I think about a lot. This is the issue of being an expat. Where is the balance between connecting with the local culture and holding on to comforts from back home? Yangon is unlike many developing cities in that it doesn’t attract expats whose primary objective is to live like kings. It’s not that cheap to live here and there isn’t the infrastructure to support Western desires, though fancy rooftop bars and westernized yoga studios are finding their market. Since luxury isn’t a motivation to live here, most expats are here with a meaningful purpose. Even still, the expat culture has a way of closing in on itself. In my case, I really appreciate that instead of settling into the expat bubble and seeking local experiences afterwards, my introduction to Myanmar happened in reverse. When I arrived to Yangon, I jumped into a week at the design studio, and felt immersed in local culture. That entire first week, I didn’t even know things like Mexican restaurants or European bakeries existed here. All I was exposed to was local tea shops, where we sit on child-sized plastic chairs and eat traditional Myanmar street foods, and small roadside shops and markets.
When the weekend came and I hung out with expats for the first time, I began to understand the difference in the two worlds. Their choice in drinks/food was trendier and more expensive than what most locals could afford. Sitting in a bar with these coworkers, friends, and other expats, I felt like most traces of Myanmar had been erased. We could have been anywhere. In small doses, indulging in gourmet food and nice drinks feels novel. But I knew I didn’t want this bubble to define my experiences here.
I will say that while I don’t seek out many Westernized experiences and am cautious of this bubble, there is definitely an understandable comfort that comes from being around people who have shared experiences. And of course, speaking English with native speakers allows me to express myself with greater ease. For example, I fully admit that commiserating with some fellow Americans the night of the election results was way better than feeling the gravity of the situation and processing my emotions alone. As I go around contemplating how local or imported different experiences feel, I’m all for trying things out and meeting as many people as possible, especially since I’m still so new. My first weekend here, I went to an expat party on a boat, and we watched a beautiful Yangon sunset as we glided down the Yangon river. The overall scene was not something I’d seek out regularly, but it certainly was a great way to build closer relationships with some new friends and appreciate the city’s beauty.
In contrast to the flashier boat party, I spend a ton of time walking around and seeing the city from the ground up. I discovered that Yangon is more pedestrian friendly than most (or all) Indian cities. It’s not terribly polluted with garbage, the air is relatively clean, and even the busy streets maintain reasonable order. Certainly hygiene and regulations won’t match western standards, but that’s not a comparison I even bother making. Myanmar overall, including Yangon, is safe and people are overwhelmingly honest and friendly. I’ve seen the most famous and notable pagodas (they contain staggering amounts of gold, diamonds, and other jewels), but I’ve also stumbled upon plenty of smaller ones as well as random parks and gardens. For the amount of rapid development Yangon has gone through, it is still quite beautifully green. From peaceful parks to bustling markets, sometimes I walk the city for hours.
I have also started frequenting an old horse-racing track, now converted into an athletic compound, to go for long runs. You may know that physical fitness is one of my personal priorities; it keeps my lungs strong, my immune system can’t function without it, and it plays a huge role in my mental health. Since leaving the US, I’ve been pleased with my commitment to staying fit and strong. I had to adjust to not having fancy athletic facilities nor the accountability of teammates and scheduled practices like I did as a college athlete. Now I rely on discipline to start every day with a rigorous workout, all on my 2’x6’ yoga mat. Prior to finding this track, this mat has been my only equipment. At Gandhigram, I took my mat to the roof and worked out as the sun rose. As I visited friends and family, I would lay the mat next to my bed and finish my workout before emerging from my room each morning. I adapted to working out privately, in the smallest of spaces. Thus, being able to run again has been hugely exciting and freeing. I appreciate that the compound is primarily occupied by locals walking/running around the course, playing soccer in the center fields, or taking a variety of martial arts and sports classes. I see young kids chasing each other, parents teaching their kids to ride bicycles, and friends hanging out. Even though my interaction with locals usually only consists of smiles and nods, I love observing the sense of community that this space provides and I love being part of it in a small way.
Aside from my daily observations of local culture, timing lucked out and I also got to travel to a town called Taunggyi, for the Full Moon festival. The festival is some combination of celebrating harvest, welcoming Buddha home, and releasing sins in the form of fireworks. Last minute I found tickets and some friends and Proximity co-workers to tag along with. We rented bicycles and explored a nearby town for hours. We even went to a winery (something I really didn’t expect to do in South Asia), and even though the wine was supposedly mediocre, I can attest to the fact that the views were amazing. At night, we took a bumpy ride up the mountain to the festival. The primary event is the balloon competition where hot-air balloons are set off, beautifully glowing and armed with fireworks. The fireworks are then supposed to go off in a magnificent display as the balloon ascends into the night, not firing too quickly and endangering the crowd but not firing too late and depriving the audience of their glory. As you might imagine, the festival is notorious for misfired fireworks or flaming and crashing balloons. All part of the fun and chaos that draws such tremendous crowds. Aside from this, there is a massive carnival, tons of street food, loud music, and amusement park rides. We stayed away from the rides, but we ate our weight in oil as we tried the regional cuisine, and the balloons and fireworks were spectacular. Living up to the legend, the last balloon exploded upon itself and torpedoed to its fiery death. There was some running and chaos in response, but we had cleared away by then. Quite a magnificent sight to see, but we’re pretty sure that balloon didn’t bring home a medal.
There were many foreigners visiting for the festival and we met people from around all the world as we traipsed around town. But despite some touristy modifications, the local tradition and culture flourished. I guess it’s not about being either an expat or a local, but figuring out how to weave together with both. Working at Proximity, I’m really lucky to be in a workplace filled with friends and colleagues who value such a strong relationship across cultures. Many Proximity expats have put a strong effort into learning Burmese and that makes a huge difference is reducing the divide between the two communities. I know there will always be a separation between expats and locals, but I hope to continue finding ways to experience both worlds. Every experience and every adventure has opened my eyes to life’s possibilities. I had little idea of what my life would look like as I took off on this journey, but now I know, the sky really is the limit.
The top photo is one of the hot air balloons as it launches fireworks into the sky. The first row below is from the sunset on the boat.
The golden dome is a view of Shwedagon pagoda and a large park near downtown.
This is Jim, our co-founder, dressed as a solar pump (our newest product) for the Halloween party at the office!
The last rows of photos are all from my trip to Taunggyi- starting with some of the views from the winery, attempting to capture the glory of the balloons and fireworks, and showcasing one of the street vendors and his masterpiece.
