I’ve had a lot of experiences over the past 9 months, but I think my time in Cambodia will stand out as two of the most unique weeks overall. It wasn’t a particularly conventional way to visit a new country, but I’m pleased with how much I was able to listen to myself and explore in such a short amount of time.
There are a lot of places in South and Southeast Asia that I am eager to visit. Many of them would make great vacations with friends or family. But on my own, I’ve found the balance of working and exploring a country to be more meaningful than just going around as a tourist. Because no matter how hard we may try not to fall into tourist traps or avoid the tourist-catering establishments, it is still hard to get an authentic experience as an outsider. Through work, I’m there with a purpose and get to learn from locals in more organic and meaningful ways. It’s always a treat to go with local colleagues to authentic restaurants or hear their thoughts on politics, economics, and social issues. It’s fascinating to swap stories of cultural practices and compare differences and similarities between our life experiences. With less pressure to accomplish a list of attractions, it’s easier to see the small details, notice the rhythm of life, and figure out how to make myself at home. And ultimately, there is something special about connecting with a new place through friendships. So while I could have taken this time between being in India and starting my next project in Mali to purely travel around one of the places on my wish list, I approached this vacation a bit differently.
One lesson I’ve learned over and over again is the power of networking. But not in a disingenuous way. For me, it’s been about learning from professionals who inspire me and finding ways to connect with organizations I admire. As my network has grown, it has gotten easier to be email introduced and set up a Skype call when I’m excited by someone’s work, but building and maintaining this network has taken time and patience. Sometimes a call ends with nothing more than an offer to stay in touch. Sometimes it results in some new contacts to reach out to. And sometimes, and this is when it all feels worth it, a call results in a conversation about opportunities. It’s a continual process and tiring at times, but it’s a necessary part of a lifestyle where staying in one place, at one company isn’t the goal. I’ve learned to think beyond the scope of posted job descriptions and be open to crafting roles more organically. There’s no procedure or protocol to follow, it’s about being flexible. So, even though two weeks would usually be considered too short to go to a new country and work, I wasn’t deterred. At the very least, I thought to pick a place where I could meet and scope out interesting organizations, laying the groundwork for future relationships. That way I could mix in some travel, but also treat it as a career investment. A few countries came to mind, but Cambodia caught my attention (Natasha’s glowing recommendation from her recent time there helped too) and I set out to make it happen.
Somehow, everything magically fell into place. When I spoke with the director of iDE Cambodia, hoping to express my interest in their work and set up a meeting while I was in town, he had even bigger ideas. Their agriculture teams were keen to learn about soil moisture sensors and soil testing (subjects I now have plenty to say about) and he had a side project regarding groundwater depletion that needed some planning and strategizing. It would be a volunteer position, but he thought in two weeks I could have an impact. In return, I would get to scope out living and working in Phnom Penh, see how I connect with iDE, and also do a bit of other exploring in the process. Perfect. With a meeting at 9am on my first day and nothing else planned, I didn’t know what to expect, but I was ready for another adventure.
When I arrived, they gave me a desk in the design studio, and I began to feel like a member of the team right away. Coincidentally, the design team has been looking to promote design thinking and improve creative and innovative capacity across the organization, so my work with the Design Bootcamps at Proximity was extremely relevant. I contributed to their discussions and helped them make a plan. In addition to other impromptu brainstorms, my work on the groundwater project, and presenting to the agriculture team in Phnom Penh, the director sent me up to Siem Reap to present again. With the agricultural team in Siem Reap, we discussed how contextual differences might influence the impact of such technologies here in Cambodia, and then I went out into the field to see their work in action and meet some farmers. Spending the day with the team, learning from them and sharing my experience, was a fantastic way to get a taste of Cambodia outside of the tourist or expat bubbles. I prefer trips like this over organized tourist tours any day, but I didn’t hide from tourism the entire time. Angkor Wat was calling.
Preparing to visit Angkor Wat overwhelmed me. It’s been a long time since I was at such a globally iconic monument and I’ve only ever seen such sights with family or friends. What if I did it wrong? From tour busses to tuk tuks, the transportation options are vast, and from personal guides to guide books, there are numerous ways of engaging with the temples. However, to me, just going around on a bicycle with a map for guidance seemed most fitting. Would I do my visit justice if I didn’t invest more in the history? Was I crazy for thinking I could see enough on a bicycle, having only one day? I got different reports from each person I talked to and wound myself in circles trying to make any decisions. My gut instinct told me to go by bicycle, make it there for sunrise, and be ambitious- go for the longer route with some less trafficked temples as well as cover all the classics. I very nearly strayed away from this plan, but finally, nothing else felt right. I rented a bicycle the night before and stocked up on some snacks. I did hesitate briefly and question my sanity as I climbed on my bicycle at 4:30 am, but at that point, I had committed. Off I went.
The entire day at Angkor Wat, me exploring alone with my bicycle, was a tremendous experience, and not only due to the beauty and magnificence of the temples. Not having a companion, I barely uttered a few words aloud the entire day, and those were to purchase the periodic tender coconut or tell curious Cambodians where I was from. Otherwise, I spent the entire day looking, listening, and thinking. At times, being surrounded by families, friends, couples, and tours, I felt lonely. But overall, it was empowering to truly make every decision for myself, without the eyes of anyone else to influence or judge. The iconic temples were breathtaking and the rest of the time that I spent wandering through forests or deserted ruins, not a person in sight, were magical. Sure it was hot, but I loved biking as a bit of a break between focusing and absorbing each temple, and I appreciated the feeling of physically working hard all day. Plus, I lived off of coconut water, nuts, and fruit, so I was completely content. It’s true, I didn’t come away with a ton of historical knowledge. I had a small guide, but didn’t read it too closely. Instead, I found it fun to let my imagination wander as I drifted around, not forcing the experience to be something I didn’t want it to be. And as I observed other travelers, my perception that everyone would be there diligently learning as much as possible was entirely false. There were plenty of people who seemed more interested in composing the perfect social media photos than having a spiritual or historical experience. Basically, within the throngs of people, there were zillions of different ways to approach the experience. By the end of it, I had biked around 50km, climbed hundreds of stairs, and shown myself that my gut reaction for what would make me happy was worth listening to.
In just two weeks, I became remarkably settled. I got close with my colleagues and we all went out for a team bonding and farewell dinner on my last day. I made some friends who, even though I was there briefly, welcomed me with open arms. I stayed with a family friend who showed me tremendous hospitality and made me feel at home. And I built several professional relationships both at iDE and other organizations that could prove instrumental in figuring out opportunities down the line. I didn’t see Cambodia like a typical tourist nor was I there strictly to work. Instead, the mix of reasons that drew me here combined to create a very special couple of weeks. My default reaction is to think that I got really lucky, the way everything worked out. But as my colleague and friend reminded me, it wasn’t all luck. A lot of hard work made this trip possible, both in coordinating this specific experience and in every step that led up to this. I’m proud of how far I’ve come to be able to pull off something like this, without any guidelines, full of challenge and adventure, and completely me.
I don’t have too many photos from Phnom Penh, but the first 2 rows are from there, showing one of the big markets and a tuk tuk. I think every country in South/Southeast Asia has their own trademark non-car vehicle.
The next row is from the design studio at iDE, showing off a beautiful mural done by a local artist, blending motifs of the countryside with Phnom Penh city.
The remaining rows are from my trip to Siem Reap.
The first row has two photos from my trip to some farms with the Siem Reap team I presented to. They showed me some innovative irrigation methods they’ve been piloting.
The next row shows some of the more not-temple things I did in the town. Pub Street is tremendously touristy but very lively. I also went to a famous theatrical/circus show. Even though I don’t usually do such things, I will say it was very well done.
The first row of temples and the cover photo are from Angkor Wat itself.
The next row of shows the bridge into Angkor Thom.
First stop in Angkor Thom was Bayon, with the massive faces. I decided to use the timer on my camera and take one photo of myself, as proof that I was actually there.
The next row shows some windows that I enjoyed thinking of as portals looking out into magical worlds.
The next row shows a series of places I stumbled up and don’t know the name, but loved exploring. The famous temples were stunning, but the hidden temples, ruins, corridors, and archways had their own charm.
And the row with photos of water are from Neak Pean, which as a temple didn’t have the most interesting architecture, but the surrounding water experience made it unique.
The next row shows photos from a few temples whose names I forget, but I liked how different temples had such different styles and feelings.
The last two rows are from Ta Phohm (famous for being the location Tomb Raider was shot at and for being the “tree temple”). I managed to avoid feeling overwhelmed by tourists all day, except here. It took some patience to capture these photos which make the temple look empty and peaceful. Even with the crowds, the stunning intersection of nature and temple was a highlight of the day.
